Yamadera in Winter
There's no dearth of temples in Japan, but what makes Yamadera special is that it's a temple complex that can only be reached by ascending 1,000 steps up a mountain that's as otherworldly as they come.
Just a few steps past the small entrance booth where you pay 300 yen for access
You gotta wonder what they were thinking back in 860 when they first built this temple. Why not just build it in a more accessible location? Why give themselves a hard time? But the answer is found with each step you walk up that mountain. You'll find yourself surrounded by stillness and quiet, by beauty so graceful, surely it must have been landscaped by the hand of God. Each scene feels like a meditation. Every step, a prayer.
The fact that I was there during winter certainly helped set the mood. I'm sure Yamadera is gorgeous in other seasons, but going there while it's blanketed in snow pretty much ensures that you'll only be one of a handful of people making the trek. It felt like I had the whole place to myself.
The downside is that melted snow makes for slippery slopes. I had to tread very carefully, and I was always aware that the way down would be much more treacherous. Upon reaching the upper area of the temple grounds, I decided that that would be as far as I went. The rest would have to wait until another trip, ideally with my husband, who I'd be able to hang on to for dear life (or bring down with me) in case I should slip.
As high as I got. Still had 260 steps to go.
I regret not going any further. But I was happy that I had gone up at all. Initially I wasn't even planning to. Due to questionable boots and fitness levels. But one step just led to another. I would get drawn in at every turn.
The lesson? Wear snow boots if you, like me, are crazy enough to visit Yamadera during winter. But please do visit. It would be just as crazy not to.
How to get there
Take the JR Senzan line either from Yamagata Station (~20 mins away) or Sendai Station (~1 hour away), depending on which one you make your base. Get off at Yamadera station. Then follow the friendly cardboard monk signs that point you towards the temple grounds.
This area is covered by the JR Tohoku East Pass, which, for only 20,000 yen (19,000 if purchased abroad), gives you unlimited rail travel in the region for 5 non-consecutive days.
Where to stay
There's lots to explore in the neighboring area, so we made Yamagata our base for a couple of days. We stayed at Richmond Hotel Yamagata Ekimae, which was clean, modern, and only a few minutes' walk away from the station (ekimae means 'in front of the station'). Service was impeccable, breakfast buffet was yummy, and there was free-flowing coffee plus other drinks for most of the day. Comfy and convenient.
